Chandulal Ashram engineer of Golconde

Chandulal, who was then the chief engineer, was the most devoted worker of all; his life was dedicated to the service of the Mother. He ate only the Ashram food, slept on a mat and pillow on a bed, dressed always in shorts and Ashram sandals, and had no other hobbies than the Building Service. The Mother had great confidence in him. Yet he had never had any experience with reinforced concrete, or with such a big building as Golconde. His junior engineer, Jatindranath Bal, who came a little later, knew much more in this field.

- Mrityunjoy -

"Golconde, was something of a 'do-it-yourself project. I found myself not only the designer, but something of a general contractor," said George Nakashima, who along with Franticek Sammer had been sent by Antonin Raymond to build Golconde. He worked in close collaboration with Chandulal, the Ashram engineer. It was the first high-strength reinforced concrete building in India.

Golconde construction North-East View - 1940

Golconde construction-25^th Nov. 1940 Cement vibrator

Normally, in reinforced concrete work where large areas are cast in form work, when the form work is, removed, the faces of the cast areas are plastered over and made level and smooth. But for this work at Golconde, Francois insisted that the surfaces be left as they were, after the form work was removed and only smoothed over with a carborundam stone. In this way, the quality of the work could be seen and so the work had to be done very carefully, there should be no holes, no blank spaces and this was done by having the concrete vibrated at the time of casting. This was quite a new technique to us. The details of the form work could be seen, the joints of the planks, the screw heads and even the grain of the wooden planks. All this was part of the aesthetic detail in the architecture and those who visit Golconde are impressed by it.

The other example was in the use of the wooden planks for the staircase hand-rails. Francois insisted that the planks should be left with all the defects in them, defects which all planks have and which are normally covered over. These small defects add to the beauty of the wood and show its intrinsic value.

Udar-

Golconde workers preparing shuttering for laying concrete

Sanjivan recounted later to some of his art students and to a few friends something interesting. He had told them that the Mother had instructed them to choose only the 'living pebbles' for the concreting work - and that is what they did.

It required a supreme boldness on the part of the Mother to push through her idea, knowing very well the limited and obscure conditions in which it had to be worked out - through an inexperienced engineer, a handful of assistants with little or no technical training, and a few unskilled labourers who had never even seen a reinforced concrete building, let alone worked on constructing one.

- Mrityunjoy -

The purpose of the dormitory was not primarily the housing of the disciples: it was the creating of an activity, the materialisation of an idea, by which the disciples might learn, might experience, might develop, through contact with the erection of a fine building... On the job perfect order was maintained. Among the various disciples chosen to work on the building, this one engrossed in the business of testing the soil might have been a retired dentist, that one responsible for the opening and closing the gate - he actually had been a banker - did his job with a conscientiousness impossible to obtain in a world where a man listens for the sound of the five o'clock whistle."

- Antonin Raymond -

All nails used for the frames for concreting would be straightened, counted and used again. Hundreds of nails were required every day. The store was maintained with scrupulous care, where every nail was counted.

- Antonin Raymond -

Franticek Sammer Czechoslovakian architect and artist

The lines of the building were so beautifully designed, with the roof made of large curved cement-concrete tiles, that the whole is truly a masterpiece of architecture. Mr. Raymond brought with him his team of architects, consisting of George Nakashima, a Japanese, and Franticek (Francois) Sammer, a Czechoslovakian. George Nakashima made the first drawings of Golconde and even made a model of a room. Work was started on 10th October 1937.1 had the very happy opportunity of working with Francois and learning so much from him. He was a perfectionist and, very much in the manner of the Mother, believed in 'perfection in detail'. The perfection of the work done at Golconde added to the fame of this building. -Udar-

Golconde construction View from Golconde roof.

In every single thing, Francois insisted on the utmost perfection and to me this was a wonderful training and such a great help in my own sadhana. I informed the Mother about all this and she was very pleased with this way of working.

- Udar-

During the concreting days we had to be on the site more than twelve hours a day. Instead of six months, it took about six years to finish the concreting; it ended somewhere towards the end of 1945. (Meanwhile, by the end of 1942 all the three architects had left, due to the deterioration in the international situation.)

- Mrityunjoy -

View of Goconde from the Ashram terrace - 1948

Golconde construction Back stairs, East view Shanti in front

As many sadhaks as possible were pressed into service there; to anyone young or old asking for work, part time, whole time, the Mother's one cry was: "Go to Golconde, go to Golconde." It was one of Mother's daily topics with Sri Aurobindo who was kept informed of the difficulties, troubles innumerable, and at the same time, of the need of his force to surmount them. Particularly when rain threatened to impede or spoil some important part of the work, she would invoke his special help; when for instance, the roof was to be built. How often we heard her praying to Sri Aurobindo: "Lord, there should be no rain now." Menacing clouds had mustered; strong, stormy west winds blowing ominously; rain imminent; and torrential Pondicherry rain! We would look at the sky and speculate on the result of the fight between the Divine Force and the natural force. The Divine Force would of course win: slowly the Fury would leash her forces and withdraw into the cave. But as soon as the intended object was achieved, a deluge swept down as if in revenge... During the roof construction, work had to go on all night long and the Mother would mobilise and marshal all the available Ashram hands and put them there. With what cheer and ardour our youth jumped into the fray at the call of the Mother, using often Sri Aurobindo's name to put more love and zeal into the strenuous enterprise...

And that is how this beautiful structure could be realised on the physical plane.

- Nirodbaran -

(Twelve Years with Sri Aurobindo)

Golconde construction - 1942

Udar was closely connected with the Golconde work from the very beginning. The main concreting work of Golconde was over somewhere towards the end of 1945. Still a lot of work for completing the building such as fixing of the louvre blades, the doors, the other fittings, completing the floor etc. were remaining. This work was taken up by Udar and his team of workers. Golconde is built in three parts: East, West and middle portion. Little gaps are left in between these parts which are covered with copper plates. This is to avoid cracks due to heat. Golconde is also earthquake proof and is provided with lightning conductors. As soon as this building was ready, the Mother appointed Mona as the overall in-charge of Golconde. Due to pressure of visitors during the World War 11, this building which was to be a dormitory to house special sadhaks for their sadhana, was obliged to be opened to visitors, even before it was fully completed.

- Mrityunjoy -

Why the name 'Golconde'? To set up such a large building required quite a lot of money and, in those days, much money was not available. So the Mother spoke to Sir Akbar Hydari about it, and as he was the Dewan to the Nizam of Hyderabad he was able to get from the Nizam a donation of one lakh of rupees for this building through the Finance Department which was under Raja Shamraj. Today, one lakh does not seem much, but in those days it was indeed

quite a large sum, as its buying- power was over twenty times what it is now, especially at Pondicherry where things were remarkably cheap. A ton of cement, good Japanese cement, cost only around Rs. 25/- and steel about Rs. 200/- per ton. Pondicherry was then a free port and there were absolutely no Customs or Import duties or restrictions. And as we had then a good off- loading pier, shipments from Japan could come directly to Pondicherry. Hence with this large sum of money the building work was taken up. Now because the first money came from Hyderabad, the Mother wanted to give a name to the building which had some connection with Hyderabad and so she chose the name Golconde, the French rendering of Golconda, the famous diamond mine in Hyderabad.

- Udar-

Golconde construction south-East view - June 1942

Golconde - piano top and stairs view of the front garden

The floor is a layered limestone found in several places in India. Here in the South it is known as Cuddapah Stone, as it comes from that district. It has been used for ages - but not as we have done in Golconde: highly polished, and with the sides cut by machine to a very straightedge. As the machines to do this were not available here at that time, I had to design and make our own machines at as low a cost as possible. The architects had specified that the floor slabs should be laid 'butt-jointed' - as is done with glazed tiles in bathrooms and so on. But for such large slabs, this meant very high-precision edge-cutting, which my machine could not manage. So Sammer, who was the architect in charge, and truly an artist, said that they should be laid with wide joints. This was done, and the result is much more beautiful than a butt-joint would have been.

This is how Mother works. She has often created difficulties so that in overcoming them we arrive at a much truer and more beautiful result.

- Udar-

The Mother asked us to drill an artesian tube-well, and she indicated where it had to be done. When we were drilling this well, generally clay and sand were extracted; but once some black material came up, which was quite intriguing. As I then had free access to Sri Aurobindo, I took a handful of this stuff to show it to him and he asked me what it was. I said that it looked to me like half-formed coal. On hearing this, Sri Aurobindo smiled sweetly and said, "Ah then! You want to pull down Golconde and have a coal mine there?" It was truly wonderful to hear him joke. One would, perhaps, expect such a Mahayogi to be serious, but he was always ready with a joke and a smile. He once said that one could be serious about a few small things, but about the rest, one should always laugh at them. Years later we learnt that this black stuff was lignite and that it stretches over a wide area, stretching well-beyond a hundred kilometers. In fact lignite is mined at Neyveli and is used for power generation.

- Udar-

Golconde side view with artesian well

Mona of Golconde

"... As regards Golconde and its rules - they are not imposed elsewhere - there is a reason for them and they are not imposed for nothing. In Golconde Mother has worked out her own idea through Raymond, Sammer and others. First Mother believes in beauty as a part of spirituality and divine living; Secondly she believes that physical things have the Divine Consciousness underlying them as much as living things; and thirdly that they have an individuality of their own and ought to be properly treated, used in the right way, not misused or improperly handled or hurt or neglected so that they perish soon or lose their full beauty or value;..."

25th February 1945

an excerpt from a letter of Sri Aurobindo

There is a nice story about how the Mother chose Mona to manage Golconde:

Mona was a model housekeeper. Datta (Miss Dorothy Hodgson), a sadhika, once visited her. She was very much impressed by her spotless house. When the Mother was looking for someone to look after Golconde, Datta told her, "I have been to Mona Pinto's house. She keeps her home spotlessly clean. She may be the one to look after Golconde."

- Mrityunjoy -

Golconde fountain

Umberlla stand in concrete designed and made by Udar

Golconde, today, a guest house of the Ashram, was not originally intended for that purpose. The Mother wanted a big building to lodge some of her sincere and serious disciples. But circumstances changed that. Golconde turned into a guest house long before it was completed, during the middle of the Second World War when visitors began to pour in and many people wanted to settle in Pondicherry with their families to be under the protection of the Mother and Sri Aurobindo. The Mother reluctantly permitted it, and once started it continued until the building was completed after the war. Then the Mother put Mona in charge, an English lady with a hospitable heart and an excellent organising capacity. The maintenance and orderliness of Golconde under her personal supervision and hard work has gained a great reputation at home and abroad.

- Mrityunjoy -

The Golconde team Maniben, Kusum, Lilou, Pushpa, Chandrakant, Gauri, Mona, Mridula, Millie, Wilfy, Udar

Here is an interesting comment by the Mother: "Mona's birthday is on the eleventh. She was born on the eleventh day of the eleventh month of 1911. Eleven - that is the number of progress... she is someone who truly loves to do things well, and wants to do them well and whatever she does, she does lovingly and very well."

- Mrityunjoy -

Each room was provided with a set of furniture of simple beauty made out of Burma teak, with the inside of the cupboard drawers made of red cedar. The furniture was designed by Sammer, one of the architects of Golconde, and was manufactured by Udar.

- Mrityunjoy -

"In the afternoons after the servants left I remember Mona and myself cleaning the toilet bowls which had yellow marks due to water stagnating. We two would also do gardening when necessary."

- Maniben -

The Mother at the Japanese exhibition Amyio, Gautam -15^th Aug. 1955

The Mother looking at the Japanese garden at the back of Golconde Pavitra, Gautam, Udar

It was a joy to step into the laundry. It was well designed, always neat, clean and well maintained. All the washing was done by hand, and the jobs ere distributed: there were soapers, washers, rinsers. On sloping cement benches the servants sat scrubbing the already soaped clothes. Soaping was done by one worker and supplied to four scrubber, each o them with their own seat and our basins or rinsing- first in hot water in one basin and them three times in cold water."

-Kusum-

Golconde tea basement in the 40s Mona, Mridula, Maniben, Kusum, Udar, Beauty

About the tea at Golconde: When we were working there we were so engrossed in our work that we did not even think of taking a tea-break. But the Mother, in Her marvellous sweetness, though She Herself did not drink tea, knew our habits and our preferences, so She asked Mona to see that we got tea at 3:00 p.m. every day. This was the start of the Golconde tea time.

-Udar-

Afternoon teas at Golconde were filled with stories that brought me insights into life with Mother as only Udar could recount them.

- Nancy -

Golconde tea basement Bob, Udar, Sudarshan Nagpal, Eckhard, Mahender sud

When the regular playground groups were formed Mother used to encourage even the ladies to join the group. When I went to ask the Mother if I could join the group, She asked me, "Have you got the time?" I was quite disappointed and told Mother, "Yes, Mother, my work is over by 5 p.m. and the Playground groups start at 5.30 p.m." Then She told me that I could join the Playground group activities. But by 1958 I had to leave the group as there was so much work the whole day and I was getting tired by the evening. I wrote to the Mother that I would like to leave the group, the Mother said, "Yes, you leave the group and rest in the evening."

- Maniben

Golconde room interior, louvres opened

My visit this time for the Darshan of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother has been unforgettably revealing, about things that I was quite unaware of. I am a practical man, dealing with sand, stone, steel and cement all the time; that has almost hardened my life. But here during these few days I discovered a new thing in life. It is not the Divine aloof in the temple, not just Sri Aurobindo in his room, but the Divine in action, making the material plastic and submissive for a new creation. You people are lucky to be tools in the hands of the Mother. I shall come again on a pilgrimage to see the building when it is ready.

- a professional engineer -

Golconde room interior, louvres closed

Times were different. Attitudes were different. Means were less but meanings were more. The sadhaks therefore achieved much with very little. Their assets were faith, devotion and persistence or perseverance... They, whether engineer or plain worker, poured not only their sweat but also their heart-felt love into the job. They took great pride and derived greater joy working. They could, after long years, say with the same pride and joy: "I was there."

- Prabhakar -

All this reminds us that Golconde was conceived as a dormitory for sadhaks - and for sadhaks of an Integral Yoga; forty individuals who would be willing to put reverence for the divine consciousness in matter into the smallest details of their daily life. Clearly, to live amid these surroundings is at once a privilege and an education. Most of us are not yet ready for that; but to all who value beauty and order in daily living, and who sense the consciousness in material things, Golconde remains a lasting inspiration.

- Shraddhavan -

Indira Gandhi visit to Golconde Nov. 1955

Jawaharlal Nerhu visit to Golconde 18^th Jan. 1955

Golconde inside corridor - 1948

The Mother said: "Golconde is not a guest house. It is a dormitory (dortoir) in which those who reside there can meditate and do their sadhana in beautiful surroundings, in very fine rooms and with many of the little daily jobs done for them, to keep them more free for their sadhana... In the old days, the Rishis used to live in the mountains and their disciples lived in caves in these mountains. Golconde is the modern equivalent of the caves for the integral yoga of Sri Aurobindo."

- Udar -

Golconde - 1948

Early 40s - View of a street and one of lightning conductors with the Bay of Bengal at the back